| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: Charging battery while hooked up
No, it won't hurt.
|
big dave
|
12/02/08 12:39pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Battery heating up
I would suspect it was being over charged, causing it to boil the water off, and thus causing the battery to fail.
I would replace the battery, and watch the voltage to make sure it isn't over charging, and check the water level more often.
It could be you need a higher quality converter, especially if you want to leave it on float 24-7.
On the other hand, it could just be a bad battery.
|
big dave
|
12/02/08 12:20pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Anybody ever build a 12v generator?
I built one on an exercise bike to demonstrate how much energy it takes to light a light bulb. It took a 9 volt battery to excite the field, and I had 4 100 watt, 12 volt bulbs that were switched on one by one. It was all I could do to light all four bulbs. We had a lot of fun with it at schools and the fair. (local electric utility).
|
big dave
|
12/02/08 11:56am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Engine block heater switch.
My block heater switch is also on the bed, and it's a lighted switch so it draws your attention when it's on. Mine is near the night stand so I can turn it on before I get up :) . I use it any time the temp is below about 40 F, otherwise my engine will make black smoke until it warms a little.
Mine works from shore power or the generator. Can't imagine trying to run it on the inverter!
|
big dave
|
11/30/08 09:08pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Help with water problem
I think that not being able to drain the tank, and not being able to pump water from the tank must be two different issue's. All that would stop the water from draining when the valve was open would a plugged valve, or line to it. If it were here, I'd wonder about it being frozen.
A plugged vent might do it, but only after it had drained enough to form a vacuum. And then it would have to be sealed off pretty tight.
|
big dave
|
11/30/08 03:36pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Help with water problem
When you say "dump valve" it normally refer's to the black and gray tanks, not the fresh water drain valve.
On my MH I have a valve to select city water or tank. If that valve were in the wrong position, it would display your symptoms.
|
big dave
|
11/30/08 03:18pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Two Batteries with different charge?
John,
A volt meter would have answered that question anyway. It was obvious that he has a bad one.
|
big dave
|
11/24/08 08:46pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Two Batteries with different charge?
Could it be that the battery that didn't take much charge was fully charged and didn't need any more? thus is the good battery?
Since the two batteries were in parallel.. NO it could not (Baring bad connections on the parallel lines of course)
To the O/P The sulfated battery would be the one that took little charge,
However I'd invest in the load tester I liked to up-thread.
Those batteries need about 250 amp load for 15 seconds after a full charge.. If the needle hits the red.. You need to work on that batteryThe way I read the OP was that he was charging them independently with a portable charger.
|
big dave
|
11/24/08 05:57pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Two Batteries with different charge?
Could it be that the battery that didn't take much charge was fully charged and didn't need any more? thus is the good battery?
|
big dave
|
11/24/08 12:05pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Electric
You still need the 12 VDC system even though you have 120 VAC.
|
big dave
|
11/24/08 11:31am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: batteries in parrallel using a bus bar
FYI, Buss is a brand name, the bars you refer to are spelled bus.
You're correct! You might also point out that busbar is one word, doesn't have much to do with the OP's question though.
|
big dave
|
11/23/08 10:45am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: batteries in parrallel using a bus bar
Electrically you'll find very little difference between buss bars and cables of equal size. But if bars will make it easier to service the batteries, I'd go with the bars.
|
big dave
|
11/22/08 09:14pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Electric Question...
If one leg of the 50 amp service is cutting out, it means there's an open circuit somewhere between the coach and the transformer feeding the circuit. It's a bad thing at best! Make sure it isn't a bad connection on your equipment. Something will show signs of burning.
I wouldn't plug my MH into a service that I know has that issue.
|
big dave
|
11/20/08 07:03pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: How to tell tire age??
The date code (usually only on one side of the tire) will be a four digit number near the bead, 1503 means the 15th week of 03.
|
big dave
|
11/20/08 01:15pm |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Favorite Smoking Wood...
To me, it depends on what food I'm smoking. For example, hickory is good with beef, but not so good with halibut. I use a lot of alder for fish, and birch for moose and beef. They are both local woods.
|
big dave
|
11/20/08 12:31pm |
Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
|
|
RE: #101 needed for use of engine block heater, please??
My block heater is factory wired with a switch by the bed that can be turned on before I get up. If the temp. gets below about 40F the block heater is required. apparently I have a thermostat that won't allow cranking in cold temps. And when I start without heater in a borderline situation, the engine will make a lot of black smoke. (my engine doesn't have glow plugs).
At 30 degrees, it takes maybe 15 - 20 minutes.
|
big dave
|
11/20/08 10:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
|
|
RE: DC problems
It sounds like your house battery disconnect is open, or bad connection in that circuit.
BTW, a deep cycle battery for engine starting isn't the best choice. It doesn't have the same cold cranking capacity.
|
big dave
|
11/20/08 10:06am |
Class C Motorhomes
|
|
RE: Home Emergency Generator Question
I'm only guessing, but I think almost any electric start generator could be rigged for remote start. I've never done it, but I'd bet I could. Talk to an electrician.
|
big dave
|
11/17/08 08:53pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Electronics and the far north
Hook, Dave or others,
Do any of you have experience with GPS topo maps in Alaska? Especially for the hand held units. I have one of the Delorme topo paper atlas books but would like to have something workable for off road hiking and fishing for navigation to find my truck afterwords. LOL I have some friends that live out on the East End Rd in Homer and have found some the roads (?) they live on don't show up on any of my GPS programs. Thinking perhaps a topo map might show their street/trail/path, etc. Does any company make preloaded SD chips with Alaska as a topo map, that could just be plugged into my Garmin? I can only find the CD version listed on the Garmin web site.
thanks,
I have Garmin's topo maps of the Western US and Alaska, and they work great! Though your friend's road off East End road may or may not be included, depending on when it was built. I don't know how much lag there is. Check it out on Google Earth.
|
big dave
|
11/17/08 11:13am |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
|
|
RE: Electronics and the far north
As far as the GPS is concerned, it works great here, it will take you within a few feet of a given set of coordinates every time, but the mapping software doesn't always match the real world. For example, there's an area along the Turnagin arm where my GPS says I'm driving in the water, and I'm off route (there's only one road). I found the same problem in South Carolina. Google Earth will show the same error.
Satellite radio won't work here, the satellites are too low in the sky.
|
big dave
|
11/17/08 09:57am |
RVing in Canada and Alaska
|
